Co-ed Bathrooms... WOOHOO!

Just have to share because I thought the scene was humorous. The bathrooms at the office are co-ed, like the show Alley McBeal. It's a naorrw bathroom with three stalls and two sinks. Today I walked in, squeezed by Diop who was brushing his teeth, went into the last empty stall and when I came out observed the thourough technique of Diop still brushing his teeth and Moulousel washing her hands, continued by her face, then feet in the sink; all while I was waiting to wash my hands. Everyone was just doing their own thing... quality moment.

Locals and Life

This weekend I had the chance to hang out and enjoy the company of a few new local friends. I think this may be one of the unique ways I will gain an understanding of this culture that is different from other foreigners because I’m willing to give those, who others may not, a chance just to talk, to learn and to share. I hung out with Jazz, whose passion and also pain is rapping. We talked about the reality here in Senegal. I have not truly been introduced to the problems here, and he began to explain them to me. One of his songs talks about the hard lives the women in Casamance endure. How they overwork in the hot sunshine everyday, how life is trop dur (too hard), but there is really no way out. He also explained to me his personal discouragement because he’s been focused on his music for 10, yet no one knows him and he does not have the money to record his songs. People without a college degree, or who do not have the right connections are left doing small petty jobs here and there to make a living. I’m curious how many people live like this. I don’t know how I would make it if I saw no end to this tiring routine. Despite it all, joy still persists in the community, the support of friends, the hospitality of neighbours and the strong presence of family. Everyone talks how they want to go to America to make money and though I see how that could make life a lot easier, I can’t help but think what they’d loose here wouldn’t be worth it, but then again I don’t really know the reality they speak of.

Personally this past week has been filled with many ups and downs that I’m learning just to have patience with and accept whatever it is the day brings. The positives have been my connections and the friends I’ve made here. I think my favourite moments were listening to Jazz, Prince and Balakey play the tumtums and freestyling a song; escaping the business of everything after a difficult day at work and just chilling on the beach with Cheikh learning new words by writing in the sand; and sitting on the kitchen floor crushing spices for the meal while catching up with Khady (she helps out and lives with the family but had gone home for a few weeks). The downs have been, well for one dealing with bodily malfunctions, and keeping up the confidence with my purpose here and ability to make the most of this experience. Before I left on this adventure, during the silent retreat, God saturated me in the peace of knowing that I am simply enough as I am. I knew then that this would be something I would need while in Senegal, so I’m working on being open to that peace again.

JP- I wanted to say thank you because after our conversation I think I began to do just that.

L'île de Gorée et l'hôtel Meridian

These past few days my professor from SU, Janet, has been here checking out the internship program. Her company has added a good change of pace to the week. I was able to be a tourist with her yesterday and we visited Gorée Island, which is an island where over 15 million slaves were shipped from Africa to the Americas. I visited a slave house and besides being affected by hearing about the horrible treatment the slaves had to endure, the part that got to me the most was gazing down this long dark hallway toward an opening looking out into the ocean. This was where the slaves were loaded into the ships, basically the point of absolutely no return for these people. Looking down that tunnel left my heart feeling so heavy, and I know this doesn’t even begin to give justice to what took place there. I’ll probably go back to the Island to visit the place more in my own way and pace.

After the Island I went over the Meridian hotel that Janet was staying at. This is probably the nicest hotel in Dakar and the nicest hotel I’ve ever been to. I took the afternoon to swim in the large outdoor pool, enjoy some sun on the lounge chairs, share a gourmet meal with Janet and take a hot shower. I must say I enjoyed it very much, but that place is not Senegal. I walked in there and was no longer the minority, no longer had to speak French, and no longer in reality. I can understand the temptation to hide away in a place like that when visiting a developing country, but I wouldn’t prefer it. I was thinking while I was there how the majority of Senegalese people have no chance of even spending one afternoon in their entire lives in the luxury I was in. I didn’t necessary feel guilt, because my time here is not about spending it in this atmosphere, but for the first time I quite clearly understood the privilege I have for being American and for being caucasian, and I’m not quite sure what to make of that.

Senegal; A Model Country

Today I learned a bit more about the Senegalese culture and uniqueness of this country. Senegal is a model country for Africa in many ways. The country has relatively low debt, little governmental corruption and low violence, civil conflict and HIV/AIDS prevalence. The interesting question is why is Senegal so unique and what’s different about it? Godlove, the country director of CRS, explained a little bit of this to me. For one thing the country established a good government system when they became an independent country in 1960. Their democratic system incorporates the checks and balance system that has helped established a culture of responsibility. The people who are in power don’t have complete power and if someone messes up they have a justice system and the media to hold them accountable. (This is definitely a very simplified explanation)

The other aspect that I find really interesting is the how the people view themselves in relation to others. A brother or sister can be considered someone who 200 years ago shared a family tie. Godlove explained how this extended view of family has shaped Senegal into a peaceful country. For example if there is a car accident (which regularly occurs) and two people arguing about it come to realize that their family names came from the same tribe/kingdom 200 years ago, they recognize each other as brother or sister, stop the arguing and deal with the aftermath on their own. This idea of extended family also creates a culture of acceptance and prevents the stigmatisation of people from conflict areas, such as the Casamance region (south-west part of Senegal). 20 years ago this region experienced civil conflict because some forces were trying to secede from Senegal. Today there remain some sporadic outbursts of violence, but peace agreements have recently been made. In many African countries people who come from conflict areas are automatically stigmatised and associated with the violence, but in Senegal people from Casamance are looked upon as people related to everyone else and no different than if they were from another region.

I thought I’d share these points because they impressed me and also because it’s rare when we are exposed to the positive attributes of Africa by the media which are well worth mentioning.

La Fête de Tabaski

I forgot that I have to make sure I get the details right since Assane is reading this (for those of you who do not know him, he’s from Senegal and a friend of mine in Seattle) So a few corrections. La fête de Tabaski involves the sacrifice of a sheep not a goat, and yeah what I called a donkey in one of my first posting is definitely not a donkey. I guess this is a lesson in a foreigner’s perspective…. it’s not always accurate.

I celebrated my first Tabaski! I started the morning by hanging out in the kitchen helping the preparation for the big meal. I cried through peeling all the onions and managed to miss my fingers while cutting the potatoes for the French fries. I did not watch the killing of the sheep, actually was unaware at the moment, but did take a few pictures of the aftermath. During the day I played with the kids and chatted with everyone since there were many visitors, and ate several meals all involving some combination of lamb, yummy onion sauce, and fries.
In the evening everyone dresses up and visits family and friends to say hello, and ask for pardon as the New Year begins for them. I dressed up in a sea green Baobao I had boughten from the market and walked around the neighbourhood with the family to say hello. I loved seeing the streets brightly coloured with everyone in their fancy outfits. This celebration was much simpler than any holiday in the U.S., but the amount of joy and richness was nonetheless greatly present. After drinking the sweet tea that is a must after dinner, the fam and I ended the evening by gathering around Sada’s laptop to look at the photos we had taken that day.

To fill up the rest of my weekend I went to the beach with Bineta. We were running, but that turned into playing in the sand and me being lazy as I just took in the moment of soaking up some sun and watching the waves. I also went out with Cheik. I met his friends/family and then we attempted to go to a club, but it was closed so after wandering the streets for a while in Dakar we ended up at a little hole-in-the-wall game place where I lost several times to him while playing the soccer game on the Play-Station. OH, I went to mass too. It was great; lots of people, enthusiasm and good music. I met a friend too, Natalie, and she lives close to me. After knowing her only from our way back from church, she invited me to her house and introduced me to her family and friends in the area. I really am thankful for this aspect of the culture here.

I had a conversation with Cheik this weekend and I realized that I had forgotten that I’m experiencing life in a developing country. The significance of the term “developing” is unclear in my head. I see life her at different, people make due with a lot less and live in what many people might initially think unsuitable, but I don’t necessarily see it as developed verses developing, it’s different in a way that’s not comparable by these terms.

Alright, I have officially spent 3 hours at work, not working, so I’m about to start. God Bless!

Doing Laundry

Yesterday I attempted to wash my own laundry… I’m really going to think twice about this next time I try to attempt it. The first challenge was convincing the women of the house that I could do it, seeing it’s done the old fashioned way here with buckets of water and your own two hands. I was the obstacle for all to see and the cause of laughter. I was told many times what I wasn’t doing it right, even from the 7 year old. I’m telling you they have high standards for clean clothes here. I’m used to the SU washer and dryer where your just-washed clothes still have remains of dirt, but sometimes if you don’t overload they at least smell better. That college norm does not work here. Right now I’m typing with raw knuckles, but by God my clothes are clean, cleaner than they’ve been in a long time.

I had lunch with Cheik (the student I met yesterday) this afternoon. I bet the people I meet don’t realize they are talked about online. Should I be using fake names? Oops… oh well. I think I’ve reeled in a friend…. yes that’s right I have a Senegalese friend. Some of you who I went to France with might understand this feeling of accomplishment when you make a local buddy. That’s all for now. God Bless!

A Silent Moment

I woke up this morning discouraged and in need of simply time to myself and of silence, but I’ve found those are both rare commodities here in Dakar. All I could do was ask God for some intervention and well, he did just that. I went for a run from my office and found a road that follows the coastline of the peninsula that extends out from the downtown area. No taxies, or breathing in exhaust or dodging people and cars, just a fairly quiet road with some restaurants and occasional people. I greeted everyone in Wolof, which make us both smile and the best part is that I came across a pier that extended out into the ocean so I walked out there, got a look at some of the fish people were catching and then sat down, listened to the waves hit the pier, enjoyed the sun shining down and thanked God for granting me my prayer.

Not only this on my way back I stopped to stretch and met a student from the university here and we’re going to have lunch tomorrow. So today could also be the start to a new friendship. This morning I couldn’t see how this day would turn out, but I put my hope in God and that’s exactly where it was meant to be.

Weekend Moments

I’ve had a few moments this past weekend worth mentioning. First, I saw a goat riding in a Taxi…. I still laugh when I think about it. I also went running along the beach and Bineta along with a couple of the neighborhood girls accompanied me. It was an odd sight for everyone to see; me, the only white girl in the area, and three little ones passing by all the men running or playing soccer on the beach. Afterwards we practiced some yoga moves and attempted some push-ups by the oceanside. It was definitely a moment of many blessings and light-hearted joy. This weekend I also went to a huge open market with Coumba to buy a boubou (I think that’s what they are called). It’s an African outfit for the approaching holiday, la fête de Habachiyy (???).

I spent a lot of this weekend hanging out with the family and I find so much beauty in them and in the Senegalese family culture. The kids have no closets filled with toys and games, but are never bored and always entertaining themselves with their family, friends and neighbors who freely enter the house when they please. There’s a richness and genuine companionship amongst it all. I think it would be an ideal environment to grow up in. I find this ambiance is lost in the more posh areas where many international people live, partly due to the walls resurrected around the houses (I’ve gone to a few of the houses of some of the CRS staff).

Last night I stayed up late conversing with Coumba, Sada and a family friend. We talked about some of the misconceptions that people have about the Islam religion. I asked about the treatment of women and Sada explained that the degradation of women is not promoted by the Islam faith but instead it is something that man has created. We talked a little about polygamy, and I still only understand it from a westerner’s point of view. But when it comes down to it, the imperfections of Islam are no different than the imperfections of Catholicism or any other religion. We are all human; we are all imperfect, but luckily we all have the same God and I’m confident he/she knows how it all comes together.

Reflection of the Day

I believe there’s something to be learned everyday. So the lesson that was reinforced in me is that there is much to benefit from if you don’t walk around with walls built up around you.

The streets of Dakar are filled with people selling all types of goods: roasted peanuts, oranges, printed fabric, beads, wooden carvings, cds… the list goes on. Being non-African is an automatic bulls eye for all these sellers. Automatically you are greeted, sometimes followed, some are too pushy demanding for your name, and others just smile and silently see if you’re interested. Usually I just say no thank you and keep walking but today while on my adventure to find a small Senegalese restaurant, I inevitably got lost, and had to rely on them to direct me around. I trusted the help of Moussa ( I now know his name) and he led me to the restaurant which wasn’t necessarily close. After I ate, he asked if I would look at his boutique, which I figured I would have to repeatedly explain that I’m not going to buy anything. But instead we had a good conversation talking about the importance of experiencing different cultures and people and of building inter-cultural relationships. I didn’t buy anything, though I’ll probably come back and buy gifts from him before I leave Senegal. After I looked at his boutique, he led me back to an area that I recognized again.

I could of easily ignored his help and assumed he just wanted to pressure me into buying things, and if I would of done this I would of missed a chance to connect with a genuinely good person. He explained to me that “tu tombe sur les bonnes et tu tombe sur les mauvaises,” meaning you come across good people and you come across bad ones. He reminded me that if you always let the fear of what’s unknown build up walls, you miss the chance to relate and connect with those unlike yourself.

And there you have it, my reflection of the day:)

Quality Day

Good day today ! I wondered around the city on my own. I enjoy exploring by myself. It allows me to be in my own thoughts and enveloped by the surroundings. My random meandering also led me to meet a few locals. During lunch I had a conversation with some fellow Senegalese and they taught me some phrases in Wolof.

Asslaloumou Aleykoum = the common greeting
Malekoum Salem = the reply (these might actually be arabic)
Ndaga def = How are you
Ndaga yeudo = Good evening

I make everyone write it down so I can remember. This evening I’m off to watch a movie at the cinema and then attempt to make it home. Transportation here is pretty chaotic and not always dependable. I live about 9 miles from downtown and it can take up to 50 minutes to reach the CRS office.

Oh I do have to mention that I jump-roped with Lantoro and Bineta yesterday. It was a good bonding activity that I believe will be continued. Alright I’m off.

La paix sois avec toi !

Day Three in Senegal

Yesterday after work, I walked to the ocean side with Lamtoro et Bineta ( 10 year old host brother and 7 year old host sister). It’s only about a fifteen-minute walk from where we live. When we reached the ocean I tried playing the wave game where you stay as close as you can to the edge of the waves as they role in and out without it touching you. But Bineta yelled to me several times, “C’est pas bon,” meaning that’s not good. Though I would go swimming on this beach any day and a few people were in the water, it’s considered dangerous. The beach is sandy, not white sand, more light brown, very busy with people. This is where everyone works out. There are pull-up bars, people doing push-ups and squats, teams working out and people running along the beach. It’s only men though working out. I have a great urge to join in the scene. I think I might try running today. In public, people receive me with friendliness and don’t pay much special attention to me than anyone else, except for some of the vendors and les drageurs (all you frenchies are familiar with this term). Don’t worry JP, I let them know that je suis fidèle à toi.

I’ve had a couple people ask me what the house is like that I’m staying at. I think I already have a different perception of it than my first day. It’s very different depending on if I’m comparing it to American standards or more local ones. It’s a modest house without many unnecessary objects. The entry way is the main gathering place. There is a T.V. and we lay a matt down on the floor to eat dinner. I have my own bedroom, which was the office of Sada. It’s right next to the entryway, so I always know what’s going on in the house. But I find the noise comforting. The house is very open and between the entryway and kitchen, there’s an open courtyard with tile flooring. The bathroom is in this area. I would say the bathroom is the most interesting. There’s a hole in the ground that you stand above to do your business, and a showerhead across the way. Yep, that’s it. At first, I thought this way kind of roughing it, but you know, the necessities are there. Across from the kitchen is the open den area for Simba, the goat, and the kitchen also is equipped with what is needed. It’s funny to think of how much I acquire in the U.S. because I feel like I need it. I’m shown here that that is not necessary reality.

I’ve been waking up at 4am because I’m still adjusting which allows plenty of time for thinking. This morning I felt uneasy, and I didn’t see how to move past it, but then I took time just to pray and read scripture along with The Purpose Driven Life and was able to be at peace with my faith in God that He will sustain me and accomplish far more than I think possible through my time here. This is insight I will strive to hold on to while I’m here. A tout le monde, bonne journée!

P.S. Mom, I’m wearing the Senegalese necklace you made me !

Internship Expectations

Today has been my first day of "work," and I feel like I'm in over my head. I'm supposed to create a manual of procedures for the partner organisations that work with Catholic Relief Services. I have a brief outline, a computer and my own creative ability to come up with the information needed and present it in French. I'll be working on my own for the most part. I feel like soomeone with experience could manage this, but that's not quite me. I'll figure something out.
I now know the names of my host family. Sada and Coumba's (the husband and wife)children's names are Iatoro, Khady and Bimeta. I've already been given a Senegalese name, Emmi. It's the name of Sada's mother so I guess that's a good sign. The house is always filled with people coming in and out whether neighboors, relatives or the kids. I like that there's constant chatter, but for the most part I do not understand it. That's because they speak Wolof and Pular, both African languages, along with French. So once again I've entered the life of the smiling foreigner.
I had my first meal with the family and though they suggested I could eat with a spoon, I jumped at the chance to dig in with my hands like the rest of them. My first night here felt calm and peaceful, which sometimes is not the case when you're in new surroundings. My favoirte moment was brushing my teeth in the open night time air. The room with the sink-type hole in the ground has no ceiling so you can brush your teeth while looking at the stars. Oh I forgot to mention that we share the house with a pet goat, but he won't be with us too much longer. He's going to be sacrificed for the upcoming celebration (maybe the passover?)
It looks like my routine here will consist of going to the CRS office each day, and returning home to spend the evening with the family. I hope to be able to exlpore the city soon, maybe this evening with another intern working here from England. Alright well I should be attempting to work. May God bless you all! Please pray that I'm able to accomplish something here while I'm interning.

Yes that's right... I'm in SENEGAL!

I've had my feet on the African ground for two hours. Right now I'm realizing that this experience will be truly foriegn, perhaps more so than I had expected. From the pictures I have seen of Dakar, I thought it might have a feel like being in a developed country, but I see that it's not. Which I believe is a good reality to base this experience in. Donkies, people, cars, buses packed with students all share the street in what appears to be chaos to me, but most likely not for the locals. The driver from CRS was at the airport and he brought me to my host family. Though I can't remember there names yet, there's the father, mother and three kids ages 3,5 and 7. I think my host family will be one of the biggest blessings here. I am going to enjoy the challenge of adjusting to a much more simple life style. Right now I'm at the CRS office. I've been introduced to everyone, which is a bunch of smiling and french that my tired brain is attempting to manage. Part of me is thinking, "what the heck am I doing here?" But I just smile at this and figure God has a plan.

Hello from NY

I made it to the big city! WOOHOO! Almost half way to Senegal. I've spent my day touring around Manhattan. I went to ground zero where the twin towers used to be... it's hard to imagine the reality of 9/11 in that empty part of the city.
After walking around ground zero, I saw something tall and gold, which I assumed to be the torch in the hand of the statue of liberty, so I just starting walking toward it. After randomly walking through China town I decided to ask if I was heading in the right direction. Well a man informed me I was walking in the exact opposite direction, but from our conversation he suggested I hop on the Staton Island Ferry to get a good look at the statue of liberty. This might have been the highlight of my day. Drinking hot chocholate on the ferry and looking out at the skyline of NY city and seeing the statue of liberty. Right now I'm in Times Square... I feel like a little kid caught up in all the business of the city. I like the ambiance of this area. Alright I'm off to the airport. I really have no idea what to expect the next time I step of the plane in Senegal, but I'm really looking forward to it.

May God bless all of you!

First attempt to Senegal... not too successful

According to the original plan I would have already been 15 minutes into my flight heading to New York, but then who likes to stick to a plan. The freezing rain and other undesirable weather conditions in New York are the causes for my flight to have been canceled. After an hour of trying to reschedule my flight, the soonest I can leave is January 9th because my ticket only works if I take the same route. So I've returned to my packed up apartment, roommate still sleeping, and I'm about to crawl back into bed. Give me 4 days and then hopefully I'll be writing you all from Senegal. My motto: all things happen for a reason. Maybe after some sleep I'll figure this one out.